Film advance lever loose

Pentax P30 - film advance lever loose, not advancing film hey, sorry if this isn't the right subreddit, but I'm having camera problems and this seemed like a good place to ask. basically, after picture 18 of what was supposed to be a roll of 36, the film advance lever suddenly got extremely loose, like it had detached from the film or something. It's the way it was designed. The ball bearing mechanism Nikon developed specifically for the F3 trades off some play in the advance lever for one of--if not the--smoothest film advance mechanisms in any manually advanced 35mm camera. Sorry no fix for this, I'd just say enjoy that silky-smooth advance stroke. level 1 Recently the shutter on my Nikon FE won't fire, and the film advance lever just swings loose and won't advance the film and cock. Has anyone else had this issue? Can't seem to find a fix. Thanks so much! clancy_morgan, Jan 3, 2017 #1. rodeo_joe|1. Take the base off the camera and have a look a So after many rolls of film the advance lever on my old Yashica has come loose. As In It's still attached, but swings back and forth freely. Do you think this is something I can fix myself, or will I have to get it done professionally. Has anybody had a similar problem, and was able to fix it themselves? Any guidance appreciated

If this video helped you out, feel free to buy us a cup of coffee. It's not expected but always appreciated.https://www.buymeacoffee.com/BRCameraIs your XG s.. My Yashica camera's film advance lever will not pull back very far. The shutter button is loose too, but when I press it the shutter does not release. The shutter looks intact, but may not work. Any ideas on what the problem is? Is it fixable, or do I need to find a new body? Edit: I managed to get the top part off far enough to take a look

Pentax P30 - film advance lever loose, not advancing film

Nikon F3 - Film Advance lever loose? : AnalogRepai

Nikon FE Film Advance Lever Swings Loose Shutter won't

Lose advance lever on my Yashica FX-D Photrio

  1. or dents on bottom cover as shown
  2. The film advance should be released using the film release button. If the problem is just that the shutter is in need of a CLA, then the movement of the film advance lever will be smooth and apparently normal
  3. The film advance lever is often loose. Edixa 16FR Rare early version with square lens surround and engraved EDIXA 16FR. Edixa M Sold in 1962 the Edixa M is similar to the Edixa 16 with -M- engraved on the top of the camera. It has a Kreuznach Xenar Schneider 25mm lens
  4. The film advance lever is fitted with the customary rubberized tip, the battery indicator button, the swinging self-timer lever along with the shutter-release button. The battery compartment is also one of its differentiations and defining components of the AE-1. For the user, this camera is a high-end functionality and versatility along with.
  5. Now, it will only cock the shutter every other time I advance the lever. It advances the frame number, and I assume the film, but every other time, the shutter won't fire. I think the top screw is a bit loose, because if I hold the lever down when I cock the shutter, it works. I've tried to tighten the top screw, but it doesn't help
  6. I have an XG-1 and an XG-M both with Film Advance issues. On one of them the lever will go half way and then stop and on the other the lever won't catch at all. Is there anyone who might know what's up? Rick_oleson New member Username: Rick_oleson Post Number: 1163 Registered: 07-200

It can also be used by the photographer to firm up a film after loading (iii) Film advance lever. Each exposure in a roll of film must be transported by hand in a manual camera with the aid of this part. (iv) Hot shoe. It helps to hold external flash firmly on the camera Film advance plate removed. Beneath it is the filmcounterplate, take it out and a small pressurering, take it out aswell. From here on disassambly is just as on the E-type. The film advance lever is held in place by three screws. If you remove them you will hear the spring unwinding The film advance lever has a total movement of a little more than 180 degrees, and has the perfect amount of resistance. It is neither too stuff, nor too loose. Another neat feature of the lever is that for quick action shots, after winding and firing the shutter, you do not need to bring it all the way back to the start position to wind it again Rock the lever back and forth through about 45 degrees - or a little less! - to advance the film, but never let the lever go back farther than shown in this picture (emphasised by red line). Use the thumb of your other hand as a tensioner to keep the rolled film taut on the take-up (and feed) spool

How to fix Minolta XG-1 stuck film advance lever (XG-7, XG

  1. The film advance lever, as you can see in this pictures travels 270º. It doesn't lock after advanced, so if you, like me, have the habit of verifying if the film is advanced before taking a picture, you are going to find a very loose film advance lever, every time you do it
  2. The film advance lever jammed, I tried to gently rock the lever back and forth with my thumb. The camera unjammed itself. I pressed the shutter release and wound on until I reached 0 on the counter. At this point, it seemed to be working properly and wound on until I reached 1. A lot loose bits was rattling within the body, I opened the.
  3. ation and permanent damage to focusing screen occurs. Spotmatic F: Condition of battery contact. Original design was poor and we fit a modified contact piece. All Models: Hot shoe loose

SOLVED: Film advance and shutter will not work on my

Super A film advance lever jammed. Apr 27, 2005. I know this is a digital forum but I do normally use an istDs. Nevertheless for slides at a few hours notice I still need analogue: I was going to make some slides and my Super A film advance lever jammed, so I had to make other arrangements. The settings knob next to it feels rough, but turns 0.58x Finder: Here you loose the 135mm but get extra space around the widest 28mm frame and comes with the following pairs: 28-90, and quick film advance lever. What makes the M3 unique is the 0.91x viewfinder which fits a bright and large 50mm frame line but that's as wide as it can go so if you plan on shooting with wider lenses, I'd.

Just slide the lever on the top right side of the camera and the advance lever can move forward. Use the final thirty degrees of the winder to push the rest of the film across the camera. Walking around with the P6 slung over my shoulder feels much like carrying around a Nikon F4 , if only by weight To start with, the film advance lever feels horrible compared to other parts of the camera. Turning the lever feels rough and is not a good experience. It sounds very sad compared to the other high quality aspects of the camera. If I compare it with the Leica M3's film advance lever, it doesn't even come close

Film will not automatically advance to next fram

  1. Give the film advance lever a full wind while keeping the film rewind release button depressed. By doing so, the shutter will be charged without advancing the film. 3. Press the magnetic release and make the second exposure. By doing so, the focusing screen frame will come loose, enabling you to remove the screen with the aid of a pair of.
  2. Contrary to the old school take up spool where you have to fiddle around to insert the film, here you simply put the film end in between any of the white lamellas (hope this is the right term), wind the film advance lever and push the shutter release several times and film loaded. Had never an issue with this easy mechanism
  3. The film advance lever is geared, so that you can advance the film using one single 210 degree motion, or several smaller motions. There's not much to see other than the tripod socket and rewind release button. There's not much to see on the camera's bottom other than a centrally located 1/4″ tripod socket and rewind release button
  4. Nikon F 35mm SLR Film Camera Body Only - very USED - READ - Parts? sold As- is Seems to work. The film advance lever loose (up/down). Dust in the viewfinder, stuff like that. Shutter speeds seem good by ear. I'm selling as parts but to the right person maybe an easy fix. Pictures show condition, brassed, marks
  5. Under the base of the film advance lever, there is a secondary lever that retracts when you press it backwards. (Next to number 5) After taking the first photo. Keep the double exposure lever pressed towards you. Don't let it loose. While holding it pressed, turn to the right side the film advance lever to load a new frame of film
  6. On my one, the film advance lever shaft had some rust, which required removing, and it works perfectly after some cleaning. To open the top cover, there are the obvious screws around the sides that will require removing. Then remove the film rewind crank, and selector dial underneath. On the other side of the camera, remove the film advance lever
  7. Film Advance: Lever type with single 130-degree stroke. Automatic self-setting frame counter shows the number of frames exposed. Self Timer: 10 seconds delay. Battery: Originally powered by one 1.3v mercury cell Eveready EPX-675 or equivalent. Weight: 460

I recently got an olympus om10 and shot my first roll of film, The film is fujicolour c200. I got my film developed and when I picked it up, the guy in the shop said some of them were really dark. The pictures have come out kinda blurry and with this weird white fog on the bottom of them ( pictures below Forcing the film advance lever can also result in overlapping pictures at the end of the roll. You may think you have advanced the film sufficiently for an additional exposure, but all you did was cock the shutter and partially advance the film, so your last and second-last exposures will overlap. YOUR CAMERA'S FRAME COUNTER KNOW

Repair: Nikon EM Richard Haw's Classic Nikon Repair and

The Sheet/Roll selector on the right of the viewfinder, beneath the film advance lever. Winding the film requires two short strokes of the advance lever (photo Fuji) Since the lenses had their own Seiko 0 leaf shutters, a lightshield curtain was required to protect the film from light while changing lenses What issue I have with the Aluminum shutter one is during winter, when I go out to shoot at - 20 degC the film advance lever seems to not lock into place at the end of the trip before it gets back and I have a loose lever. I keep doing some back and forth until it finally advances the film and clicks into place

came alive again. Old mechanical film cameras frequently featured a spring-driven device that delayed the release of the shutter in order for you to get in your own photo: a self-timer. This device is found on the shutter of leaf shutter assemblies, usually as a small post sticking out with a red color at the tip to remind you it's a self-timer. disappears under the desk. Unfortunately, I missed the loose screw that was causing the problem, and moved on to checking the top of the camera. This is a little trickier to remove. First, you have to take off the top of the film-advance lever. I used a rubber-covered plate off an old iPhone stand, which gave me enough grip to turn it. Then Then shot all the film advancing the film, frame by frame, with the film advance lever until you have all the film loaded to the right spool of the camera. Then, when you reach the end of the film, you will notice that the lever does not allow you to advance to the end of its path. If it's a bit loose don't panic! the part will do its work. The film advance lever did not return to its normal position, and there was some resistance even when one tried to rotate it back. Although I was not familiar with this camera, I suspected a broken spring. This, indeed, turned out to be the case. The removal of the top is not difficult. Unscrew the film rewind knob 2. Push the film advance lever to the front and release it. Repeat. 3. Release the shutter button. Hear click. 4. Gently wind the Film Advance lever again for a short distance until it stops. Now release it. You are ready to take a snapshot. Remember, Instamatics are clear sky sunny-day cameras with tiny slow lenses

Minolta XE-7 Film Advance Lever Problems ThePhotoForum

  1. The chrome L lever on the left is used when in bulb mode. When the bulb lever is pushed it first moves the lever on the left to grab the tooth on the upper gear (second curtain), and moves the upper lever off the tooth on the lower gear (first curtain) so it releases first. Then when the bulb lever is released the left lever lets the upper gear go
  2. There are also several features on Ricoh 500GX that I wish Yashica has, such as indicator to show if film is loaded inside the camera, and if the current film frame has been exposed or not. I also appreciate the short throw of Ricoh's film advance lever. Several people have called it as abrupt, but I prefer it than the long one on Yashica
  3. Repairs - Loose Lens Barrel. This was the only issue that I could find any information about online as apparently affects a lot of Rollei 35's. Unfortunately, the fix requires breaking down the camera even further to replace a friction collar inside the camera body and I really didn't want to go to those lengths as all those mechanical.
  4. Advance the film using the film advance lever (on top right of camera) until the sprocket teeth catch the sprocket holes. Close the back of the camera. Tensioning the Film. The film is loaded, but it's really loose in there. You want to tighten it so it winds properly and captures perfect images
  5. Achtung: Don't loose the camera bottom, either. Achtung: Keep your fingers out of the shutter, especially if you're positioning the film in the channel or positioning sprocket holes. Advance. Stroke the lever. With older Doppel Verschlusssaufzug und Filmtransport mit einem Hebelschwung (double stroke) models, be sure to move the lever twice.
  6. The film advance, a folding crank lever which automatically advances one frame at a time, and also cocks the shutter, is the primary feature borrowed from the Rolleiflex. Internally, the Yashica-Mat and all the other 6×6 Yashicas are much more closely related to the lower-end Rolleicord models
  7. The next step is to remove the ASA Speed Dial and the Film Advance Lever. The safest way to remove these without scratching up the fittings, is the use of an Adjustable Snap Ring Pliers. These pliers are usually used to handle C clips and should come with a set of several size points, both straight and angled
The film advance lever is stuck

Film advance lever not working Film and Vintage Forum

4. Wind the Film Advance Lever and make sure the Sprocket teeth properly engage the perforations along the edges of the film. 5. Close the back cover. Advance the film by pressing the Shutter Release Button and winding the Film Advance Lever alternately until the red figure 1 comes opposite to the triangle index in the exposure counter. 6 The advance lever is also the power switch for the light meter — it must be pulled out from its home position about 15 degrees. If you've already operated the lever to advance the film and cock the shutter, it will stop at this resting position when it return, and will lock to avoid a double advance solidly enough that, like the.

The Kiev 60 is the evolution of a copy of — and in a rare turn of events — an improvement on an East German camera, the Praktisix/Pentacon Six, via the Kiev 6S (6C in Cyrillic).As a T-shaped, rather than box-shaped, medium format camera, the Praktisix, and its derivatives, were thought to appeal better to those photographers more familiar with the 35mm SLR format, as the action and shape. g) cock the shutter by turning lever 11 as far as it will go. Press release button 3. As the shutter is cocked, the film is advanced by one frame. To transport a nonexposed portion of film to the film gate, cock the shutter two times pressing the release button after each cocking Film advance: Single-stroke winding lever. The whole body is angular, but the loose arch at the Penta softens the whole body, which is a pretty good design. The Penta in the ASAHI era is classical. The Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8 was now attached to the camera with an SL-39 49mm UV lens filter on it for free,.

It was working fine until I finished my first roll of film, and I tried to load a different roll in. The film wind lever has gone completely loose, and the film won't advance when I use it. Is there a way for me to easily fix this at home There is a lever all the way to the left in the 8th picture. this lever is held by spring tension to keep the format from changing after the film is fully advanced. after the shutter is fired, the lever moves out of the way to allow format changes Once you remove the film advance lever and the rewind know you will finde a small ring on top of the camera. This one is sometimes loose. When it is the top of the camera is loose aswell. The screw on the advancelever moves counterclockwise once the lever is of there is a secundary screw underneath which holds down the top 1) Wind the film advance lever all the way forward, BEFORE threading the film, and hold it there. Now pull the film leader across to the take-up spool. 2) Rock the lever back and forth through about 45 degrees to advance the film, but never let the lever spring back farther than shown in this picture

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But the camera is ripping the film, not when rewinding but on advancing, with the holes broken, it doesn´t move. If i open it and trigger the advance lever the film then flows freely, but when i place the back it got broke and stuck again, so i supposed it was the pressure plate When you use the film advance to wind the film, you simply have to check if the knob on the left (that you use to rewind the film) is turning. If it turns, good, it means that the film is properly. The advance lever siezes also. The only fix to release both at present, is to remove the lens and manually release the mirror in its half up position. I remove and replace the battery thereafterand she will work til the next frame 2-4!!! She dry fires without problemsonly when loaded with film do I experiencethis problems? The film-advance is the noisiest part of the whole cycle thanks to its loud motor. You can delay that by depressing the shutter and not releasing it until you think it's safe for people to hear the camera buzz. The only difference a Nikon L35AD has compared to the base-model is its inclusion of a date-back

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The film rewind lever was loose and spinning with film loaded. Having never owned a CCN, I wasn't sure if this was normal, or if there was a bearing worn out that supplied some drag to the wind shaft. So I found a very thin paper washer that I put just under the wind lever that had enough friction without altering the height. Problem solved Confirm film advance: film rewind knob 25 turns opp osite engraved arrow as winding lever is stroked. 12. Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until frame counter indicates 1. Camera is then ready to take first picture. 13. Look through viewfinder eyepiece 32 and focus on subject. 14. Switch meter on, lightly pressing shutter release button

The Classic Camera Repair Forum: Ricoh XR-S Film Advance Leve

Insert the film paper backing into the take-up spool and advance it using the knob until it's well engaged. Advance the arrow on the film backing paper to white marks at the beginning of the film plane. Close the camera back. Advance the film via the advance knob until the little window near the shutter release shows 1. It's completely automatic Self resetting film counter. Red flag in film counter after shutter tripped, but not advanced. Single 180 degree throw advance lever. Automatic FP or X synchronization. Detachable pro bulk film back for up to 400 exposures. Adapters to permit use of Exakta, Pentacon (Pentax 42mm) and Leica lense

troubleshooting - Film advance lever does not go all the

Check where the film advance lever is on your camera: if it's below (like in Kodak Instamatic 500), turn the spool upside-down so that it engages the camera's advance crank. OPERATIONS Take a 35mm film, cut it straight at the end and tape it to the take-up spool This will advance the film one frame. Be sure you advance the lever all the way in a full stroke or several smaller strokes until it stops; Otherwise shutter will not operate. 2. Release shutter. After shutter is released, film is ready for next advance. FILM EXPOSURE COUNTER The film counter shows S, 1, 2, 4 and subsequent even numbers up to. ..unless pushed aside with this film rewind lock release lever. This arm advances the film counter disc. (The film counter disk has been removed). By the way, the long spring hanging down loose is the film advance lever return spring. The picture depicts the situation just after an exposure, when the shutter release button has been locked, but. Wow! Really impressed to see how you dismantled and re-assembled back the camera. Recently i had also tried the same on my Canon VT De luxe. I managed to dismantled the parts that hold the top panel except the film winder. just incase you have experience on canon, do you know how to remove the film winder from that panel. i couldn't find any screw that hold it to its place. thanks in advance

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A big ratchet lever for the right thumb takes care of film advance, the circular window next to it keeps count of frames used, and the setting knob between window and finder selects for 120 or 220 film. You must match the film to the reversible pressure plate inside the back door before loading up th) exposure on the 120 film is shot set pointer to ''F'' by pushing the free lever to right. Film winder will become free and the film can be quickly wound up on take-up spool). (see photo of film advance knob being wound) 2. Open back cover and take out film holder gently by pressing two knobs together Unscrew the release button. Again, it turns counterclockwise. You are confronted with that damn kind of screw again you wish you had a spanner for in order to remove it. But it can be turned with an ordinary screw driver as well. Put all parts belonging to the release button and the film advance lever into a separate container Film-Advance Lever This single lever on top of the camera winds the film cocks and releases the shutter and operates the frame counter all in two simple operations. To wind the film squeeze the lever until it stops with a click. This also cocks the shutter and operates the frame counter. When you are ready to shoot, squeez Remove the film advance lever. The screw that holds this in place has two small holes and can be removed with needle nosed tweezers. Once the screw is removed, lift off the lever and the drive dog under it. Note the assembly of dial, face-plate, brass shim and elastic ring (from top to bottom) for the film type reminder 2. A internal curtain of viewfinder (a lever beside the eyepiece). You do not need a cover, which is easy to loose. 3. DoF preview and multiple exposure (unlock the ME lock, press the button both under the film advance lever before winding film) 4. A bright scale of shutter speed in the viewfinder